This week marks the start of Nepal’s biggest religious holiday, the annual week-long Indra Jatra festival. This Newari festival dates back to the 10th century and is characterized by grand processions, masked dancers, music, food and religious offerings. It pays tribute to Indra, the Hindu king of heaven.
Lakhae dancer on the first day of the Indra Jatra festival
Small groups of musicians are scattered throughout the crowds, each seemingly competing against the others to see who can be the loudest.
Kumari Jatra chariot procession
According to legend, Indra descended to earth to pluck a rare flower that does not grow in the heavens. He was captured by the locals and put on display in Kathmandu, who refused to believe Indra was who he claimed to be. Eventually Indra’s mother Basundhara became worried and went to Kathmandu. The locals, upon realizing their mistake, immediately released Indra. In return, Basundhara promised to always provide enough rain for a healthy crop.
Locals prepare for the Indra Jatra festival
Although Indra Jatra is also celebrated in Bhaktapur and Sikkim (as well as other parts of India) the main festival occurs in and around Kathmandu Durbar Square (one of three Durbar Squares in the Valley, all of which are UNESCO World Heritage Sites).
Locals Prepare For The Indra Jatra Festival
…And The Indra Jatra Festival Begins!
An elderly man pauses to say a brief prayer as he passes by
The festival commences with Yosin Thanegu, in which a large tree is stripped of its branches and dragged from a forest 30 kilometres outside of the city all the way to Kathmandu. Known as yoshin, this tree is erected in Kathmandu Durbar Square and the banner of Indra hung from it. Although I missed the actual procession, pictured above is the yoshin.
Police line up to clear a safe pathway for the kumari and her entourage. Who/what is the kumari?
The Kumari Steals The Show
The unquestionable highlight of the Indra Jatra festival is the Kumari Jatra festival. (Yes, that’s right, its a 3-day festival within a week-long festival…those Nepalese really know how to party!) The Kumari, otherwise known as the Living Goddess, made a rare appearance over the course of three days in a grand procession with three gold chariots.
The Royal Kumari of Nepal on her golden chariot
The Kumari is a pre-pubescent girl who is supposed to be a human manifestation of the divine female energy. She lives in a palace, is pampered beyond belief and hardly even allowed to walk on her own, and is worshiped as a living god until reaching puberty — at which point she is stripped of her deity status and must return to a simple life living with her family.
The other two chariots contain young girls representing Bhairav and Ganesh
Popular misconception says that former kumari cannot marry, however this is not true. It’s merely said that marrying a former kumari will bring imminent death upon yourself, which for some strange reason tends to scare men off. (And probably women as well.)
After being paraded through the crowd, the living goddess reaches her chariot…
…is passed from person to person, so she doesn’t have to exert any effort…
…and finally placed within her golden chariot.
There are many Kumari throughout Nepal, however the most famous one is the Royal Kumari of Kathmandu. Although I could ramble on about the life of a Kumari, the controversy surrounding this tradition, or the long and difficult readjustment phase that occurs once these young women go through puberty, let’s save that for another day. Instead just enjoy these photos of the Indra Jatra festival 2015
The Kumari Jatra chariot procession and crowd
The Kumari Jatra chariot procession and crowd
People offering prayers to the gods
People offering prayers to the gods
Musicians and elaborately dressed dancers work their way through the crowds. In the background crowds can be seen sitting on rubble from the earthquake five months earlier.
Traditional Newari food is prepared and served
Three mischievous Lakhae dance as a way of offering prayers and entertaining the crowd
Several locals can be seen looking down from the best seat in the house
…the danger zone
Crowds awaiting the appearance of the kumari
As you will undoubtedly notice from the photos, there is plenty of rubble and earthquake damage remaining, even here in such a prominent part of the capital city. People are using it as stadium seating, which is unfortunately further destroying what remains.
Spectators sitting on rubble from the earthquake
How old do you think this engraved stone tablet is? Now it’s being stepped on, further chipped and crumbled by people clamoring for a view of the festivities
However there is some repair work ongoing, even during the festival. Look closely at the bell at the top of the building
Indra Jatra After Dark
The fun and festivities continue after sunset, with fresh crowds of families arriving after their daily obligations have been finished.
Crowds honor the gods while taking selfies
This is Indra Jatra. This is Nepal
Candles and lamps are burned to honor family members deceased during the past year
Candles and lamps are burned to honor family members deceased during the past year
Festival dates change every year, as it is based off the Nepalese calendar. But if you happen to be in Nepal at the right time, make sure to check this one out!
Nice pictures Derek. Looks very similar to the Nandashtami fair that happens in Himalayan India during September/October. That’s based on another legend though.
Awww, so I’ve already missed Nandashtami this year? Well, guess this is the beginning of festival season…can’t catch them all 😉
Yup that’s gone for this year. The big one that you missed was the Nashik Kumbh mela.
In case you havent seen it, NatGeo did an interesting look at the Kumari tradition that I thought was worth the read:
http://proof.nationalgeographic.com/2015/05/22/photographing-the-living-goddesses-of-nepal/
Haven’t seen it, will give it a look now…thanks for the tip 🙂
The Nat Geo is worth the read. Glad you’re enjoying everything.
Yeah, this was a complete surprise to me. I was just back in Kathmandu one week for several meetings and happened to hear about the festival. Glad I decided to go check it out though 🙂
Looks like a pretty fascinating festival man. Love that legend about them trapping and displaying the god only to be like, “Oh damn, sorry about that…” and the god in return being like, “Yo, I just wanted a flower. So here’s some rain forever.”